Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime
Thanks for ordering this report. It was a wise decision. Now, in
all probability, you won't have to junk that "old friend". You
won't have to pay $500 to $740 for major repairs or a new
engine. You're about to discover an amazingly easy, economical
and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil; to
restore compression and end plug fouling!
Before getting down to the "1-2-3's", let be tell you about my
experience and what led to the publishing of this little-known
Less than a year ago I bought a "cherry" 1967 Chevy half-ton - a
one owner Camper Special that had always been garaged and used
solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery
looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or
ding. It had all the "goodies" - air conditioning, tranny
cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while
The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the
brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner
was buying a new truck and asked only $850. I promptly paid
without quibbling, figuring I had a real buy. Drove my bargain
about 600 miles and it used very little oil. But, the engine was
running a bit rough. Time for a tune-up.
The analyser showed average-good compression except for one
"low" cylinder. "You're getting close to 70,000 miles," the
mechanic remarked, "and about due for a valve job. It's a good
investment for a truck in this shape." I agreed.
Paid him $150 for the valve job and the fun began. For the first
20-30 miles I rejoiced in my "new truck" smoothness and power.
Then, I noticed that I was being followed - by billowing clouds
of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the shop. Carburetor may be
out of adjustment? No such luck. That smoke was burning oil. The
mechanic stared at the engine and scratched his head. Finally,
he pointed at the 110 volt converter. "I got a feeling," he
said, "that there is the culprit. Your engine's got a lot more
miles on it than you think. They guy you bought it from probably
ran the engine plenty while the truck sat, generating juice for
his TV, lights, chain saw, you name it."
What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the
valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real
"Old Smokey!" Drove it that way for a few weeks, but I was
burning a quart of costly oil every 200 miles and getting
cross-eyed, looking for (and trying to avoid) cop cars. The
plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and bucked
like a goosed bronco, just a few miles after installing a fresh
In short, I was in the position you are now... owning a
basically good vehicle you want to keep. I, too, was unwilling
to pay the cost of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck
at today's inflated prices. Like you've probably done, I went to
an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on additive
cans that promised to stop oil burning. Picked one up and walked
over to the clerk.
"This stuff any good?" I asked. He, more honest than sales
oriented, replied: "Dunno. Never heard of it really working." I
walked out without buying.
Couple of days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I
stopped at a small gas station-garage at the edge of town. The
owner, a thin elderly fellow in grease-splotched bib coveralls,
walked over while I was hosing-in gas.
"Nice lookin truck," he commented. I nodded. "Saw your smoke,'"
he added. "Thinkin of rebuildin the engine?" I replaced the hose
in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged,
figuring he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn
He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit favorable?"
"Fixin what's wrong. Go get a cup of coffee down the street.
It'll be in good shape when you get back."
"You've got to be kidding!"
He wasn't. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years
and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so,
since learning of a new product and devising his own technique
for using it, he wasn't doing much rebuilding. "Gettin too old,"
he complained, "to keep tearin engines down and puttin em back
Twenty minutes later, I drove out "memorizing" some
instructions. My smoke plume soon disappeared and the engine ran
progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and
plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still
don't add oil between changes and you never heard a better
running old truck! Now, here's the "Secret Technique" that
venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily
First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers
and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install
new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop
leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of
"Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop
or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.)
Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-
1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been
using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30
weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier,
single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the
winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of
the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't
hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn
2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning,
which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use
during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than
5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)
3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at
least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening
it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!
Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the
"usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why,
as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-
The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and
cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is,
standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are
too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of
the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A
heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the
Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also
helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the
accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving
pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.
The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel.
So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the
Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with
going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother
changing a winning combination!
My success wasn't a "fluke" or something possible only with my
type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I
talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976
Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000
miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance. He dropped from an
oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning.
One of his co-workers, impressed with the "born-again behemoth",
bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real
tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he
sold it at a handsome profit!
Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many
successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers,
boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That's
when I decided to advertise this "know-how" in a small way.
Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor
is this report based on any "lab tests". All I know is that this
method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a
bunch of others. I can't see that there's any "risk" involved,
but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this
information assumes no liability or responsibility for any
vehicle damage resulting from the use of said information,
because of factors beyond Seller's control. Use at your own
Look at it this way. You didn't pay $3 for a "testimonial." You
invested a small amount for information that can save you
hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide
you with many months, or even years, of additional service...
postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come.
Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25
per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin' Seal, for about $2.50 for 15
ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of
course, auto supply stores.